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【帕米尔情怀】故事:申紮男孩

2010-05-19 11:26:52 来源:艺术家提供作者:燕娅娅
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時間:2006年7月
地點:西藏北部申紮(海拔4800)
故事:申紮男孩
  婭婭山上的故事
  從拉薩開車向西,走了三天,快到申紮了,看不見路,只能順著電線杆辨認方向。沿著電線杆的方向走,終於到了申紮。
   由於語言不通,和藏民無法交流,沒有人家願意讓我們留宿,只好改變策略,每到一家,先拿出錢來,每人給牧民10塊,告訴人家我們的意圖。到了第四戶人家,終於同意我們留宿。
  因高原反應,頭昏無力,什麼事情也幹不了,就想馬上休息。這時,一個小男孩出現在眼前,不離我左右。小男孩主動幫我拿東西,找水,默默幫我做所有的事情,我想做什麼,他好像都知道。
  他幫我生著了爐子,安靜地坐在一旁,看著我入睡,像一個守護神。我問他,你為什麼要照顧我?他一笑,不說話。
   我說,阿姨睡一覺,明天起來,給你畫畫,他笑了,還是不說話。
   第二天一早,天剛濛濛亮,屋裏的爐火早就滅了。我睜開眼,第一眼看到的就是小男孩,他沖到爐火邊,抓了兩把牛糞,熟練地生著了火。屋裏暖和起來,他又趕緊去打水。我觀察著他的一舉一動,心想,我和這個男孩一定有緣!
   我準備好了油畫箱,對他說,給你畫張畫好嗎?他點頭。7月的申紮,氣溫只有幾度,屋外刮著7、8級大風。
   我們走出屋外,小男孩只穿了一件單衫,坐在石頭上一動不動,像一個老練的模特。因為天冷,他的鼻涕幾次流了下來,他根本不去擦,每次流下來時,只好使勁一吸。一畫就是40分鐘,男孩在風裏坐著,快要凍僵了,我的後背也僵硬了。最後,我們誰都動不了。
  我無法站立起來,乾脆就跪著,把他叫了過來,讓他看完成的畫。男孩看到畫中的自己,嘴巴張得好大,半天也說不出一句話。我問他,喜歡嗎?他點點頭,笑了。
  我趕緊進屋暖和去了,男孩卻沒有進去,在屋外幫我收拾起了畫箱,他把畫箱收拾得整整齊齊,一樣一樣幫我拿到屋裏,然後坐在我的旁邊。
  我把兩個鹹鴨蛋放到男孩手裏,我為不能給這個小傢夥更多的東西而愧疚時,他卻顯得特別滿足。

Time: July, 2006
Location: Shenza in Northern Tibet (altitude of 4800)
Story: A Boy at Shenza
  For three days, we drove west from Lhasa. Not far from Shenza, the road ended, and we could only follow the electric poles for direction. Finally we reached Shenza.
  Since none of us spoke Tibetan, we couldn’t communicate with the local residents. As a result, we could not find anyone to accommodate us for the night.  We decided to change tactics. Each of us held a 10 dollar note out when knocking on the door of a household to ask to spend the night. On the fourth attempt, we finally found a place to stay. 
   Mountain sickness quickly kicked in, I felt so dizzy and weak that all I could do was rest up immediately.  At that moment, a little boy appeared by my side – quietly carrying my bags, poured water and helped with everything, as if he could read my mind.
  He lit up the fireplace, sat silently on one side and watched me fall asleep, just like my guardian angel.  I asked him why he was taking care of me. He smiled and said nothing.
  I told him that I would paint him after I wake up the next morning. He smiled again and said nothing.
  The next morning, at the first light, the fire in the fireplace had completely died down, the first thing I saw when I opened my eyes was the little boy.  He quickly rushed to the fireplace and cleverly re-lit the fireplace using dried cow dung.  The room once again filled with warmth.  He quickly ran to fetch water.  I watched closely his every move while thinking that fate had brought us together.
  I prepared my painting kit and told him I would paint him.  He nodded his head.
  It was July in Shenza, but the temperature was only few degrees Celsius with stormy blustering winds.  
  I went outside the house and the little boy sat down quietly on a stone in a simple shirt, acting like an experienced model.  Because of the cold, his nose became runny. He didn’t wipe it, rather kept still and just inhaled deeply to prevent the mucous from dripping.  I painted him for forty minutes while he sat frozen in the strong wind. My back was also painfully stiff. Finally, neither of us could move at all.
  I could not stand up straight, so I just knelt down to show him the finished work.  When the boy saw himself in the painting, he opened his mouth but was speechless.  I asked him if he liked it, he nodded his head and smiled.
  I hurried back inside the warm house but the boy stayed on outside to help me pack up.  One by one, he made sure everything in the kit was tidily in place before coming inside to sit next to me.
  I put two salted duck eggs in his hands and felt guilty that I could not offer him more. He, however, seemed to be very satisfied. 

 


 

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