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分类介绍:  时间:2003年7月   地点:阿富汗边界   故事:走进与世隔绝的塔吉克   第二天,五连派了四个战士带我们进山。没有路,只能从山沟外往里走,要步行3天才能到。那儿海拔是5200米,每走一步,都是体力和意志的巨大考验。由于海拔高,不是走,而是挪!   我身上背的小包,已经交给了战士,即便这样,每走一步,都觉得艰难无比。头一天夜里,露宿在一户老乡家,这家人只剩多半截蜡,根本舍不得点。战士们和老乡在黑屋里聊起了天,我已经说不出一句话。   行走了一个白天,虽然路途艰难,但还可以承受,但到了晚上,身体处于静止状态时,尤其躺下后,由于海拔高,气压低,胸口有裂开的感觉,呼吸特别困难。蜷缩在黑暗里的土炕上,最大的担心就是身体能否坚持到天亮。时间一分一分过去,身体越是难受,心里越恐惧,不知道还剩多大的承受力。还有,这种恐惧感是不能说出的,说出来只会增加别人的负担,唯一的办法就是独自扛着,用意志解决。   终于挨到天蒙蒙亮了,心想,与高原抗争的第一个夜晚终于熬过去了!第一夜虽然过去了,第二个夜晚的考验在等待着。没有退路,前面还有更高的海拔、更艰难的路。   喝过奶茶,吃了点馕,继续上路。空气更加稀薄,呼吸更加困难,山更高了,每走一步,都得咬牙。远远地,已经能看见塔吉克人住的毡房了,心里升起希望,不由得加快脚步,却发现,体力与心情根本无法达到一致,越是想加快脚步,越是举步维艰。眼睛不敢向后看,时间过去好几个小时了,才发现只走了这么一点点……只能向前看,心想,离塔吉克人近了,近了,越来越近了……   终于走到了塔吉克人面前,走近他们时,才知道他们与以前打过交道的那些塔吉克人究竟有什么不同!因为长年的与世隔绝,他们没有见过外面的人,他们看到我们时,眼睛里充满了无限的吃惊和喜悦,又带着千丝万缕的不解;他们恨不得马上弄清楚这是为什么,却又不知道该说什么?   一位老妇人小心翼翼地坐在我旁边,拉起我的手,把我的手放在她的手心里搓,一搓就是一个多小时。她满含深情,目不转睛看着我。   不需要说什么,我们就这么坐着。因为太专注,根本没察觉到毡房里不知道什么时候已站满了人。抬头一看,吓了一大跳,我的头上是一片头,一个又一个塔吉克人目不转睛看着我,每个人的眼睛都瞪到了最大!他们的脸脏兮兮的,眼睛红红的,坐在他们中间,我一点不紧张,也不觉得不自在,只觉得当初决定来,是对的。   算起来,这已是第十次上帕米尔了,唯有这次,生命和意志都得到了最大限度的考验!   晚上睡觉时,不敢脱衣,在毡房里,男人和女人睡在一处。毡房里唯一一个带点拐弯的小土台,是男女的分界。一支小蜡烛放在我旁边,但凡做出一个轻微的动作,所有的眼睛都刷地转过来,看着你。他们睡觉是不脱衣服的,一个大袍子扯过去,呼呼就睡了。   这里的温度变化无常,中午还30多度,晚上一下就到了零下20度,他们把唯一的羊毛毡给我铺到了炕上。夜里冷透了,头部是冰凉的,脑袋要裂了,只好把头蒙在羊毛毡里取暖,可羊毛毡的味道又臭又骚,头应该放在哪儿?最后的选择,还是得钻进羊毛毡,嘴里不停喘着粗气,心想,这一夜一定能熬过!   第二天,到四周转了一圈,才知道,整个大山沟里,只有这么一个土毡房,住在毡房里的老妈妈有两个女儿,但是晚上没有在房间里住。原来,她们为了让我睡个好觉,就睡在了露天的羊圈里,老妈妈说,她们是为了看守羊,但我知道,其实不是的。   心里真的很难过,不知道怎样报答。只好把随身带的唯一一把雨伞送给她们。两个女孩和母亲从来没有见过雨伞,她们兴奋不已,把雨伞打开后,却怎么也合不上了。我只好重新教她们,她们像宝贝一样拿着雨伞,用刚学会的汉语,连声说:谢谢、谢谢、谢谢……   山里没有水,用水要到附近去背,背回来的是冰雪,融化成水,节省着用。这里的人从来不刷牙,早晨,我要了小半缸水,站在毡房外刷牙。她们再次吃惊地看着我,不知道我在干什么…… Date : July, 1995 Location: Afghanistan Border Story : The Secluded World of Tajike On the next day, the Head of the Fifth Division of the People’s Liberation Army sent four soldiers to accompany us to the mountain. There were no pathways, and we could only enter through the ravines. The trip took three whole days. The elevation was 5,200 metres, every step I took tested my physical and mental strength. Due to the high elevation, we dragged our feet along instead of walked. I gave my rucksack to the soldiers, even so, I still felt the enormous difficulty when I moved along. I stayed in a village house for my first night, the family had only half a candle left, and they wanted to save it for future use. The soldiers and old villagers therefore chatted in the dark, but I was too weary to speak. I walked a whole day, although it was a tough journey, I could still endure it. At night, when I am lying still, I felt as if my chest was going to explode and had great difficulties breathing. This was probably due to the high elevation and barometric pressure. I huddled up next to a stove in the dark, and my greatest anxiety was whether I could last till the next morning. Time passed by slowly, I did not know how long I could sustain. I did not tell anyone about my inner fear as I did not want to become other people’s burden. I endured this with my own will power. Finally dawn arrived, my first night of ‘wrestling’ with the highlands had passed, yet the second night awaited me. There seemed to be no escape, as ahead of me was even higher elevation and more hardship. After having some milk tea and nan-bread, I continued with my journey. The air became thinner and the mountain higher. I clenched my teeth when I walked. Far away, I could see the yurt that the Tajike clansmen lived, and my spirits were lifted. I tried to speed up, however, my physical strength could not keep up with my inner desire. I found it hard to move any further. I dared not turn back, several hours passed and I had only covered a short distance … I looked ahead and kept thinking, the Tajike clansmen were near … I finally stood in front of a group of Tajike clansmen. When I approached them, I realized that they were very different from the Tajike people I had encountered. The Tajike clansmen here had long been secluded from the outside world, and had never met any strangers before. When they saw us, their eyes were filled with amazement and delight, and questions whirled in their minds. They wanted to find the answers, but did not know where to start. An old lady cautiously sat next to me, she held my hands, and rubbed them in her palms. She did this for more than an hour and I could feel her deep affection when she gazed fondly at me. We did not say anything but sat there quietly. I was so absorbed in my thinking that I did not realize the house was already filled with people. When I raised my head, I was astonished. Above me were many Tajike people, all staring at me with their large eyes! Their faces were dirty and their eyes red. Sitting among them did not make me nervous or uneasy. I was glad that my initial decision of coming here was right. This was my tenth expedition to the Pamirs, this time, both my life and will power faced the greatest trial. At night, I dared not remove my clothes as men and women slept together in one room. At a corner, there was a small mud platform, which served as a division between men and women. Next to me was a small candle, and the slightest of movement would draw attention. The Tajike clansmen usually slept with their clothes on, they pulled a huge blanket over and would soon be fast asleep. The temperature changed drastically, it was 30oC at noon, but soon dropped to 20oC below zero in the evening. The villagers gave me their only wool blanket and spread it over the stove. It was freezing at night and my head ached, it felt as though it would split. I covered myself with a wool blanket in order to keep my head warm, thought it stank. I therefore had to take constant deep breaths, and hope I could endure the night. The next day, while wandering around, I realized that there was only one earth yurt within this huge ravine. There lived a mother and two daughters, but they did not stay in the house last night. Later, I discovered that in order for me to have a good rest, they slept in the open-air sheepfold. The old lady told me that she wanted to guard the sheep, but I knew that it was not the truth. I had a guilty feeling, I did not know how to repay them. I decided to give them my only umbrella. The mother and two daughters had never seen an umbrella before and were full of excitement. They opened the umbrella but were unable to close it, so I had to teach them again. They said “thank you” in Han which they had just picked up. The mountain has no water, and we had to get it from places nearby. The water was actually melting ice and the Tajike clansmen had to use it carefully to conserve the precious resource. People there never brushed their teeth. In the morning, I took a small bucket of water and brushed my teeth outside the house. They seemed surprised when seeing this, as they had no idea what I was doing.

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