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分类介绍:  時間:2004年7月   地點:塔什庫爾干大草灘   故事:看著我的眼睛   高原反應挺厲害,頭疼了一上午,渾身不舒服。下午感覺好點兒,想出去走走。在縣城找了半天車,沒有找到,剛想放棄的時候,看見一輛紅色的小夏曆停在那兒。司機用半生不熟的漢語問:去哪兒?隨便哪里都可以,我說。   車沿著縣城唯一一條公路開出,到了一個岔口,司機想往左邊去,我堅持要他向右開,他很不情願地向右開去。   車停在了一個大草灘上,我不經意地向前方望了望,天哪!在四顧茫茫的草灘上,竟然有一個用牛糞餅壘起的小屋。屋頂是帆布,遠遠看去,又像一個帳篷。我像發現新大陸似地走過去,但沒抱什麼希望,我想不會有太大的意外。   當我掀開小屋的門簾時,眼前的景象卻讓我精神為之一振!!!   這是一戶塔吉克人家,家裏有父母和姐弟,但他們全家人眼睛的顔色是我以前從未遇到過的。真的是非常特別的眼睛,瞳孔是灰黃色的,像貓,整個眼睛是亮的,像寶石!我不由得坐在他們對面,觀察起他們的眼睛。姐弟倆很配合地坐在那兒,讓我看他們。我們相互對視著,足足有20分鐘。   我心裏在想:這簡直就是波斯貓的眼睛啊!   我想,他們也一定在審視我:這是什麼人種啊?   後來我才知道,我碰到了純種的歐羅巴人的後裔。我把姐弟倆拍了下來,後來的事情非常有趣——這個看上去只有十一、二歲的小男孩此後就一直跟在我後面,充當我的翻譯。其實他根本翻譯不了什麼,說出來的話我一句也聽不懂,但他就是願意興高采烈地跟在我後面,從頭到尾都顯得非常激動和興奮。他帶我去了好幾戶人家,每到一家,他都把人家全家大小從屋里拉出來,讓我給他們拍照,他還在一旁不停地幫人家戴帽子,整理圍巾。我拍照的時候,他站在一旁,特別得意。   為了表示謝意,我想送他一個小禮物,翻遍了包最後找出一個可以伸縮的彈簧米尺。當我把黃色的小尺子拉開時,他驚訝極了,我一鬆手,尺子彈了回去,他更是驚訝得不得了。   他把尺子重新拉開,卻不敢鬆手,生怕尺子要飛了,索性就在頭頂上舉著。他就這麼舉著小尺子,又帶著我淌過了兩條小河,走過了一大片沼澤地。   又到了一戶人家,一群孩子跑過來,好奇地盯著他手裏的尺子,他仍然舉著;有的孩子想摸一下尺子,他忙用身體把他們推開。   我真的沒有想到,我的到來和一把小尺子能讓一個塔吉克男孩興奮一個下午。 Date : July, 2004 Location: A Big Patch of Grassland in Tashikuergan Story : Look into My Eyes My body reacted adversely to the highland environment. I had a severe headache for the entire morning and was feeling unwell all over. I felt better in the afternoon and so I decided to go out for a walk. In town, I had spent half a day looking for a vehicle and had almost given up when I saw a small, red Xiali stopped nearby. The driver asked me in halting Han, “Where are you going?” I answered, “Anywhere.” We drove around town using the only public road there. When we arrived at a junction, the driver wanted to go ‘left’, but I insisted on going ‘right’. He then turned to the opposite direction, very reluctantly. The car finally stopped on a large patch of grassland. In front of me was a little house built from cow manure and a roof covered with a large canvas. When looking from afar at the house, it has the shape of a tent. I was like discovering a new world and almost ran towards it. I had no idea of what I would encounter. I raised the curtain of the little house, what appeared before me lifted my spirits! The inhabitants of the house were members of a Tajike family comprising a father, a mother, a brother and a sister. I had never seen anything comparable to the colours of their eyes, they looked extremely special and unique to me. Their pupils were yellowish-grey, like those of a cat, and their eyes were exceedingly bright and clear, like gems. I could not help but sat in front of them and look into their eyes. The brother and sister sat comfortably together, composing a harmonious picture, and let me studied them closely. We looked attentively at each other for almost twenty minutes. I was thinking, these eyes must belong to a Persian cat! They must be wondering where I came from. Only later did I realize that the brother and sister were descendants of Oulaba. I took a snapshot of them and something interesting happened. The brother, a little boy who appeared to be eleven or twelve years old, followed me everywhere and acted as my personal tour guide and interpreter. Actually, he was not very useful as an interpreter as I did not understand a word he said. However, he followed me joyfully and excitedly. He brought me to several households, and each time we arrived at a house, he would ask all the family members to come out so that I could take photos of them. He even helped the family members to put on their hats, tidy their clothes and scarves. When I took the photos, he stood next to me, feeling pleased and contended. In order to express my gratitude towards the little boy, I gave him a small present. I turned my bag upside down and found a measuring tape which I gave him. When I pulled the yellow strip of the measuring tape, he was amazed. When I loosened my hand, the strip sprang back, and he thought that was incredible. He pulled the strip and held it firmly as he did not want it to spring back and “fly away”. Later, he put the measuring tape on his head and led me through streams and marshes. We arrived at another household, a group of children ran to us and they looked curiously at the measuring tape that the little boy was holding. Some children wanted to touch it, but were driven away by the little boy. I had never thought that a simple tool would cause such an excitement to a Takjike boy for an entire afternoon.

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