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分类介绍:时间:1997年7月 地点:帕米尔高原金草滩 故事:恰艺   再上帕米尔。海拔4200米,偶尔有鹰掠过天际。   一路风尘渗入鼻息,气味更添荒凉与原始之气。在一家普通毡房的门外,一位七八岁的漂亮小女孩与我不期而遇。   简直就是活脱脱在高原T台里走秀一般,在我照相机的无言邀约下,小女孩不停地摆着各种「甫士」,自然可爱,浑然天成。   我好喜悦,在那一刻。   翌年盛夏,拿着小女孩的照片寻遍高原,不见她的踪迹。原来,塔吉克人在高原游牧,寒暑交替,每年仅辗转于夏季牧场与冬季营地之间,行踪难定。此后年年上山,年年寻找,我仍与小女孩无缘。心,仍是牵挂着。   第四年,临近七月,正在死赶参加全国美展的一幅大画,时间异常紧迫,累极,本没有时间上山了,但是,那股奇特的高原情愫却如海潮般在我体内波涛暗涌,我无法和自己的心讲和,没有情绪拿起画笔。   简单收拾行李,出发。说来奇怪,火车朝着高原的方向行驶时,我的心蓦地达到了前所未有的宁静与祥和。   我想念那个不知名的小女孩。这次上山,她又会带给我几多惊喜呢?   举着小女孩的彩色大照片四处打听,女孩子的容颜渺不可寻。终于有一天,在一间毡房外撞见了两个嬉闹的小女孩。我赶紧掏出照片,比划着问,这个女孩——见过——没?   两个孩子瞪大双目,脱口而出,——恰艺?   我喜出望外,再指照片问,她是——什么?   ——恰艺。   我一把拽着其中一个说,你——带——我—去—找——恰艺?   她点点头,拉着我在草原上疯跑,边跑边喊——恰艺,——恰艺。远远地,前方相距三四十米左右,一个毡房孤独而立。   高原的孩子能跑,而我只能慢挪苦随,未几,已是上气不接下气。我和两个小女孩一同喊恰艺的名字,高原也和我们一起喊,回音荡漾,远处毡房里却静寂无声。   及至房前,挑帘入内。毡房简陋,潮湿的地上略显肮脏。暗色而破旧的毛毯上,小恰艺躺在妈妈的怀里,苍白消瘦,已病入膏肓。她抬眼看了看我,大眼睛里饱含话语。   我心一沈,泪雨不期而落。几年前恰艺摆「甫士」的模样历历在目,竟恍若隔世。我拿出照片,伸至她的眼前。恰艺眼瞪照片,嘴巴大张,接照片的手不停地抖。也许,这个女孩子从未见过自己的全身影像吧?!她的目光有些吃惊,又有些羞涩。旋即,她将大照片紧紧地贴于胸前。   我坐在恰艺跟前,和她说话,明明知道她一句也不懂,我还是选择了倾诉。「你知道吗?阿姨找你找得好苦。每年上山我都在找你。我特别想你,我知道,你也很想阿姨,是吗?」   恰艺点头,眼神柔和,眼波清澈明亮。   「恰艺每年到了七八月份就开始念叨说,那个阿姨一定会来的。恰艺年年都在等你。」恰艺的母亲略懂汉语,眼含泪光地解释道。   「小恰艺,阿姨真的来了,阿姨不知道你在哪里!阿姨年年都在找你啊,可是——」   我哽咽着,空气沉默一阵。我庆幸,终于寻到了恰艺。如果今年没有上山,我相信我会犯下今生最大的一个错误,我将永不会饶恕自己。   毡房外即是空旷的蓝天和远处的皑皑雪山,微风吹来,云朵流逝。   我陪了恰艺三天,和她妈妈一起照顾她。恰艺只是患了感冒,但高原上的感冒容易诱发肺气肿,加上原本缺医少药,小小的感冒也会死人。   我和恰艺语言不通,眼神和手势就行。恰艺在我的关心下一天天好起来。第三天,她就能站立行走。   回到北京后,我为恰艺设计了一个画稿,恰艺和仙鹤相依,她笑脸纯真,裙裾翩飞。我期望这个美丽的女孩从此顺利、健康、快乐。 Date : 1993 Location: A Patch of Golden Grasslands in the Pamirs Story : Shi Yi I visited the Pamirs again in 1993. The elevation was 4,200 metres, and sometimes one could see a hawk gliding across the boundless, azure sky. On my way to the mountains, I could smell the primitiveness and desolation in the air. In front of a Tajike house, I met a beautiful little girl who was seven or eight years old. The little girl posed in different postures before my camera, she was natural and lovely. It was a moment of pure joy. In mid-summer of the following year, I took the photo of the little girl with me and searched all over the mountain ranges, yet I was unable to find any of her footprints. Later, I discovered that each year the Tajike clansmen would travel between summer ranges and winter camp, and therefore it was difficult to trace them. Since then, I went up to the mountains every year to look for the little girl but in vain. I missed her profoundly. It was July in the fourth year, I was hurrying to complete a large painting as I intended to participate in a national art exhibition. There was little time left and I was completely worn-out due to overwork. I would not be able to find time to visit the Pamirs. However, there was a strange feeling of nostalgia, like waves surging in my body. I yearned to return to the mountains and had no intention and mood to pick up the paintbrush. I had a strange feeling. I took only a few simple belongings with me and embarked on my journey. When the train headed towards the direction of the Pamirs, deep down in my heart, calmness and tranquility set in. I missed the little girl whose name I did not know. I wondered how much more surprises she would give me in this journey. I showed the big colour photo of the little girl to almost everyone I came across, it was difficult to find her with only a photograph. Finally, I met two little girls playing outside a Tajike house. I immediately showed them the photo, making gestures and asked, “Have you seen this girl?” The two little girls looked at me with large eyes and said, “Shi Yi?” I was overjoyed after hearing that. I pointed to the photo and asked, “Who is she?” “Shi Yi”, they repeated. I grabbed one of the little girls by her hand and said, “You––take––me––to––Shi Yi?” She nodded, then held my hand and we ran madly in the mountain ranges. The little girl ran and shouted, “Shi Yi!” At a distance of some thirty or forty metres away, there stood a house. Children from the highlands are all good runners, but I could only drag my feet. I was totally exhausted after walking only a short distance. The little girl and I shouted Shi Yi’s name and the whole mountain echoed. Far away, there was complete silence in the house. When I arrived at the door, I drew the curtains and went inside. The house was simple and crude, and the floor appeared dirty and wet. I saw little Shi Yi, wrapped with an old and shabby wool blanket, cuddled up to her mother. She looked pale and thin, and was seriously ill. She tilted her head and looked at me, and her eyes seemed to be hiding a thousand messages. I was overcome with sadness all of a sudden and tears streamed down my face. My memory was full of Shi Yi’s beautiful posing a few years ago, which all seemed very remote. I took out Shi Yi’s photo and showed it to her. She looked at the photo, with her eyes and mouth wide opened, and her hands were trembling with delight. Perhaps Shi Yi had never seen her full image, she looked a bit startled and was shy. She held the photo firmly and close to her chest. I sat in front of Shi Yi and started chatting with her. I knew fairly well that she could not understand what I said, but I still wanted to share my feelings with her. “Do you know that ‘ah yi’ has been trying hard to look for you? Every year, I came back to the mountains just to look for you. I missed you dearly, and I know that you missed me too?” Shi Yi nodded, and her eyes were so clear and bright, with a touch of gentleness in them. “Every year when July and August was drawing near, Shi Yi would mumble, ‘Ah yi will come again’. Shi Yi has been waiting for you every year”. Shi Yi’s mother could speak a little Han, and she talked with tears. “Little Shi Yi, ‘ah yi’ has finally returned, I don’t know where you were, and I was looking for you each year.” I sobbed, silence reigned. I was glad that I finally found Shi Yi. If I had not come back to the mountains this year, this would have been the biggest mistake in my life, and I would never forgive myself. Outside the house, there was a vast, navy blue sky and gleaming snow-capped mountains far away. A gentle breeze was rearranging the clouds. I accompanied Shi Yi for three days and was looking after her with her mother. Shi Yi was suffering from an influenza, but this could easily induce pulmonary emphysema. Due to the lack of medical supplies on the mountains, even a minor illness could lead to death. Shi Yi and I could not understand each other verbally; however, we could communicate well through eye contact and body language. Under my care, Shi Yi had a speedy recovery. On the third day, she was able to stand up and walk. When I returned to Beijing, I had designed a sketch for Shi Yi, with her embracing a crane lovingly. She has a pure and an innocent smiling face, and her skirts were dancing in the wind, full of imagination. I sincerely wish this beautiful little girl success, good health and happiness!

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